The year 2019 saw Prada push the boundaries of fashion presentation, not merely showcasing its collections but crafting immersive experiences that intertwined architecture, lighting design, and the garments themselves. While there wasn’t a singular “Prada Contest” in the traditional sense of a competition, the brand's approach to its Fall/Winter 2019 and Spring/Summer 2019 shows, particularly the innovative use of space and lighting by AMO, effectively created a contest of sorts – a contest between the traditional runway show and a more experiential, theatrical approach to presenting fashion. This article will delve into the various facets of Prada’s 2019 presentations, analyzing the innovative strategies employed across its different collections and the impact of these presentations on the fashion world.
The most significant element unifying Prada’s 2019 presentations was the collaboration with AMO, the research and design studio founded by Rem Koolhaas. AMO’s contribution was instrumental in shaping the overall atmosphere and narrative surrounding the collections. Their most striking work was arguably the theatrical field of lights installed within the grand hall of the Deposito for both the Men’s and Women’s Fall/Winter 2019 shows (FW 2019 Men’s and Women’s). This wasn’t simply about illuminating the runway; it was about transforming the space itself into a dynamic, evolving environment that interacted with the clothes and models. The lights, meticulously arranged and programmed, became integral to the storytelling, creating a sense of depth, movement, and drama that amplified the emotional impact of the collection. This approach moved beyond the traditional passive backdrop of a runway show, actively participating in the narrative and becoming almost a character in its own right.
Let's examine the individual collections and how AMO's design philosophy, or its absence in some cases, influenced their presentation:
FW 2019 Womenswear: The Fall/Winter 2019 Women’s collection, presented alongside the Men’s collection in the Deposito, benefited significantly from AMO's lighting design. The theatrical environment created a powerful contrast between the structured, often severe silhouettes of the clothes and the ethereal, shifting light patterns. This juxtaposition highlighted the collection’s duality – a blend of strength and fragility, tradition and modernity. The press release for PRADA FALL/WINTER 2019 MENS AND emphasized the innovative approach, showcasing how the presentation itself was as much a part of the creative process as the garments themselves. The resulting images and videos captured the dynamic interplay between light and clothing, showcasing the clothes in a way that went beyond a static display.
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